Doors and travel are two of my favorite things in the whole world. Thus, I’ve decided to combine the two. Won’t you step across the threshold and into this travelogue about our Christmas trip to Vienna?
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After soaking up some much-needed sunshine in Tenerife, we traded our swimsuits for scarves and headed to Vienna to experience the magic of the city in winter. While we missed the warmth of the sun, Vienna more than made up for it with incredible food, delicious wine, captivating culture, and a festive atmosphere that was impossible to resist.
From the moment we arrived, the city was alive with the spirit of the season. Stepping out into the cold, foggy evening, we found ourselves drawn to the twinkling lights of the Karlsplatz Christmas Market nestled at the base of the brightly lit Karlskirche. The air was thick with the scent of cinnamon and cloves as we sipped steaming mugs of glühwein near a warming station. A live nativity scene, complete with adorable sheep, was the centerpiece of the market, surrounded by artisans selling unique gifts to eager shoppers.
The energy of the market worked up our appetites, so we made our way to Artner, a popular Viennese restaurant known for its warm, modern atmosphere. We settled in, savoring the crusty bread served with two kinds of sea salt and a selection of spreads, including butter and ‘pork drippings’. A glass of Blaufränkisch, a local red wine, warmed us from the inside out as we waited for our meal. After a creamy palate cleanser, we were presented with a feast of fresh grilled fish over risotto and the house specialty, Wienerschnitzel.
The following morning, we woke to a light dusting of snow on the streets – a perfect winter scene. We set out to explore Naschmarkt, a bustling food market that transforms into a full-blown flea market on Saturdays. The Art Nouveau buildings that lined the market provided a stunning backdrop to the stalls overflowing with everything from Christmas trees to exquisitely dried fruit. We practiced our German with the patient stall owners, picking up packages of mango and chili hummus, 20 stuck of falafel, and a unique dish of schwarma noodles – a delicious fusion of Middle Eastern and Asian flavors.
Vienna is a city best explored on foot, and we spent hours wandering the cobbled streets, admiring the ornate architecture, and soaking up the atmosphere. We discovered hidden Christmas markets tucked away beneath charming church towers, like the one on Mariahilferstrasse, one of the city’s main shopping streets. On our way to the Spittelberg Christmas Market, we couldn’t resist joining a long queue that snaked from a steaming food stall. The enticing aroma of frying potatoes led us to the source – a well-oiled assembly line of erdäpfelpuffer (potato pancakes). We ordered ours with a generous helping of garlic butter and understood instantly why people were willing to wait.
Vienna’s Christmas markets are truly magical, especially after dark. One evening, we found ourselves enthralled by the Wiener Christkindlmarkt at the Rathaus, with the grand town hall rising above the market stalls. We indulged in heisse maroni (hot roasted chestnuts) and browsed shops filled with tempting treats. On Christmas Eve, we strolled through the quiet streets near our apartment, marveling at the dramatic residential buildings, many adorned with Art Nouveau flourishes.
Of course, no trip to Vienna would be complete without experiencing its rich cultural heritage. One evening, we had the pleasure of attending a performance of Wiener Blut at the Volksoper, a more accessible alternative to the famous Staatsoper. While the operetta was in German with English supertitles, the lavish sets, colorful costumes, and comedic timing of the performers made for a thoroughly enjoyable evening. We also caught a symphony performance at the Musikverein, where the grandeur of the concert hall alone was worth the price of admission. We were mesmerized by the music and the atmosphere, even with our partially obstructed view.
Vienna also offered the opportunity to venture beyond the city limits. We took a day trip to Krems in the Wachau Valley, a charming town known for its wine production. We hiked to the top of a hill for stunning views of the surrounding vineyards, enjoyed a free wine tasting at Weingut Stadt Krems, and indulged in delicious pastries at the pastel-hued Biedermeier-Cafe. We even crossed the border into Hungary for a day trip to Sopron, where we explored the medieval architecture, climbed the Fire Watchtower (though perhaps not worth the wait), and savored a hearty Hungarian goulash.
Our week in Vienna flew by, filled with unforgettable experiences and countless moments of wonder. We rang in the New Year amidst a sea of revelers at the Silvester celebration, dancing to funk and soul music under a sky illuminated by fireworks. As we boarded our flight back to Dublin, we knew that the magic of Vienna in December would stay with us long after we left.
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